Chanel Spring 2010 Couture
Right.
I didn't recall this on my own of course, but I have exactly 4 sewing reference books in my library, one of which is Couture Sewing Techniques by Claire Shaeffer and when, after about 10 minutes, I got bored with seam-ripping the ribbon off my skirt- I pulled out this book and found a section on Chanel trims:
My idea to use a pick-stitch to apply the ribbon was not entirely off base. It's the wrong stitch for this purpose, but I was right that it should be hand-sewn.
In this case, with a running stitch.
The book mentions a combination stitch- running stitches combined with a back stitch every third stitch for added strength, which is probably a good idea on these seams.