when i sewed this bodice muslin up from the pattern i drafted, i was pretty amazed at how well it fit. the back was great, the shoulder seams hit where they were supposed to, no gaps at the armhole. the problem area was at the bust darts, which is where i had the most issues fitting previous garments. so while it didn't fit, at least the problem area was consistent.
i wondered where the bust dart was supposed to be positioned. the answer was 1" to the outside of the bust point and 2" or more down from the armhole (this is the one part of the pattern drafting that's based on a standard). ok, except that when i marked the bust point on my muslin, i discovered that it was almost parallel to the armhole edge, or about 1/4" down from the armhole edge. that's significantly higher than the standard 2".
i had my doubts, but i redrew the darts to 1/4" below the armhole. you can see the original dart placement in yellow below the new dart placement--
& the fit was perfect.
i also readjusted the 2 front waist darts by pin fitting them. now i need to redraw my pattern to match what i've got on cloth. then i'll sew up another muslin & see where i'm at. hopefully nothing else will go out of whack.
you know, fix one problem, 5 more appear.
