Tuesday, September 07, 2010

completed the bodice sloper.

drafting a bodice sloper has been an endless series of sewing failures like a party of one trying to plug a hole in the Hoover Dam.

this was my first attempt & despite successfully tracking multiple math calculations & drawing up a couple of nice looking bodice slopers, i couldn't get the resulting muslin to fit to save my life. i'd fix one thing & then 3 more things weren't working. at one point i asked someone to redo all of my measurements (thinking the first set was off somewhere) but that didn't work either.  so i gave up.

well not totally, i did some more researching & discovered this book--


i got an older, used copy for very cheap, it addresses just about every fit issue imaginable & i love it. 


i decided to use the blouse from this vintage pattern as a starting point, because with the exception of the rolled collar, it's totally plain. just standard bust & waist darts with 2 zips- one on the side & one in the back.

McCall's: blouse, jumper. 1960s.

this time i remembered about my sloping shoulders. i redrew the shoulder seams accordingly, thereby saving myself 2 days of floundering around in excess fabric. then, i sewed up the muslin & checked all the places the fit was off- namely the bust area. following the instructions in the book, i moved the bust dart down about an inch.


because of the adjustments i'd made to the shoulders & bust, i had to redraw the armholes with my french curve. & lastly,  it was too bulky at the waist so i got rid of about 1 1/2" there.

bust dart & armhole alterations

i re-sewed the muslin with these new adjustments & it fit. i now have a usable bodice sloper!

i don't have pictures of the final muslin because as soon as i got the right fit, i immediately ripped out all of the seams so i could draw the final sloper. too many things going on & I wanted to finish this project up while everything was fresh in my mind.

next up is a pants sloper.